Adjustment of the knotter in big baler part3 4. Loading twine

A.Knotter numbering

B.How to reef a square knot

C.Twine routing

In case of a mistie 

Topics or posts linked or related

مواضيع أو مشاركات مرتبطة أو ذات صلة

http://ebraheemseleman.blogspot.com/2013/07/adjustment-of-knotter-in-big-baler.html

http://ebraheemseleman.blogspot.com/2013/07/adjustment-of-knotter-in-big-baler-1.html

http://ebraheemseleman.blogspot.com/2013/07/adjustments-to-knives-in-big-baler.html

Adjustment of the knotter in big baler part2 Result of all modifications

A.Reduced driveline torque

Advantages :

•Better overal performance

•Less wear on components

•Smooth driveline = less noise when knotting

•Increased reliability

B.More consistent and longer pigtails

●

•Double knotting results in twines around the bale with two knots

–One to join top and bottom twine when tie-ing off a bale (knot I)

–One to join top and bottom twine of the new bale (knot II)

•Past weakness of NH knotter was knot II which tended to have short tails which could unroll. High density and silage baling (some grass in the knots) are conditions which worsen the problem.

•NH knotters have changed (patent!) to overcome this weakness. Competitive knotters still have this weakness.

B.More consistent and longer pigtails – Summary of the test

●

•NH knots do have tail lengths of around 20mm. There’s no difference between knot I & II anymore, all knots have good length knot tails.

•Competitive double knotter clearly had problems with short tails  with knot II. Several borderline tails (5mm). All nr. I knots were OK: all longer than 10mm and of approximately the same length as NH knots.

•Unfortunately one poor knot is enough to cause a bale to explode.

  NH BB9080 rotor cutter vs comparable competitive unit 

Oat straw. Spain 24/6/2008. 10.00-12.00

C.Improved serviceability

Easy and quick removing of the shielding to access the knotter.

This simplifies threading, adjusting and maintenance

Adjustment of the knotter in big baler 1. Description of the parts

•know the different components of the knotter,

•explain what the changes for the new BB9000 series vs. the old BBA series,

•be able to adjust the knotter

1. Description of the parts

The pinion gear (6) has been poured out of stronger material.

A.New design of knotter frame

B.Reduced twine tension

C.New twine finger

Prevents the twine from slipping during the ejection of the 2nd knot.
In this way, twine tension is locally build up, which eases the ejection of the 2nd Knot.

D.New twine finger spring

E.New billhook

New billhook lip :

-lip is longer + new formed tip

-opening of the billhook from 8 mm to 12 mm

-due to the increased billhook opening, better adjustment possible from the twinedisc in relation to the billhook.

-less knotter problems, because the twine can be grabbed more easily when the billhook is turning.

New formed tip :

-The corner at the end of the tip is sharper vs. The old tip

-This holds the cut twine endsin the billhook for making a strong knot : the twines hit a “wall” which freezes and tightens the knot already inside the billhook.

-With the old billhook, the knots (2nd knot) needed to be tightened more by the slacker arm springs. 

F.Twineholder with longer bridge

Remark : the old BBA series already had 2 springs, not 3 as shown on the picture. 

G.New billhook cam

G.Knife arm without tail

With a single knotter we need the knife arm to take off the knot and to prevent the twine comes behind the knife arm.  With a double knotter the knife arm is in another position and the twine can not get behind the twine arm

The "angle" was also the cause that the knife arm broke off => the knife arm passes the haydog (the haydog has a shape that makes sure the knife arm can pass).  If you have a thick flake (=> haydog in his upper position) and on that moment you have to start the knotting cycle the "angle" will hit the haydog and breaks of the knife arm. 

H.Changes to the knotter stack

Past :  washer - bushing - washer between 2 knotter bodies.

Today : The knotter bodies are shifted 2 mm to the right, to avoid interference of the needles with the billhook pinion gear. 
Also the shim under the pinion gear disappeared

I.New knotter disengage mechanism

Adjustments to the knives in big baler

-Know and explain the different knife drawer options

-

-Adjust the knife drawer to work in the field

-Change the knives in the knife drawer

1. Center the knives in the rotor

• Loosen (2)            • Adjust and center knifes 

  to rotor with (3)      • tighten (2)

To centre the crop cutting knives, the locking plate of

the knife drawer can be adjusted.

2. Adjustment of knife frame latching hooks

• retract cilinder                • loosen (4)

• adjust X=1mm with (6)    • tighten (4)

2.Adjustment of knife frame latching hooks.

Retract knife frame hydraulic cylinders completely. Adjust with eyebolt ref.6 a clearance   of X=1mm between latching hook ref.2 and latching plate ref.3. Adjustment to be made on both sides of the machine

3. Knife replacement

•Lower the knife drawer hydraulically from  tractor

•Slide open the knife drawer

•Replace the knives – place false knives when knive is removed

•Follow reverse way to close the drawer
remark : It is no longer necessary to unlock the knives. 

4. Knive sharpening

Field test results indicate the knives can best be

resharpened after approximately 500 bales in clean

crop conditions. In contaminated crop conditions

resharpening may be necessary after 200 bales.

Grind on the smooth side of the knife only, never

on the notched side.

When reinstalling the knives, make sure they

regularly change position in the machine, i.e. middle

ones on the outside and vice versa, to equal out their

wear pattern

5. Knife drawers available

BB9050 & BB9060

Packer cutter : 6 knives (as BBA)

Rotor cutter : Standard - 11 knives

                      Short Cut option – 23 knives (as BBA)

BB9070 & BB9080

Rotor cutter : Standard Cut – 17 knives

           Short cut option – 33 knives (as BBA)

Crop flow adjustments in big baler

Covered in this chapter :

- principles of feeding (packer, packer cutter, rotor cutter)

- double knot principle

-Setup the sensor plates according to the machine type

-Adjust the stuffer

-Explain and adjust the stuffer brake

-Adjust the crop holding fingers to the correct settings

1. Sensor plates

2. Stuffer 

• Before loosen the bolts to change the adjustment.

•  Place vizegripe on sensor plate (under pre-chamber) to limit the
    sensor plate travel at the right spot.

•  Adjust bracket  in the middle of the slotted holes and adjust 
    dimension Z =10mm by lengthening or shortening the linkage 1 .

• TIC S’07 : accelerated stuffer (improve top fill)
                   reinforced shuttle pivot arm
                   revised lobe (less agresive) 

3. Shuttle feeder               

4. Stuffer brake

It must be possible to clear clutch dog arm away from roller.

The brake spring length is initially set at 35 mm

(1 3/8’’). Check and adjust the brake as follows:

1. With the baler operating at normal speed, check

if the stuffermoves steadily and without abnormal

shocks.

2. Ensure that the stuffer returns and remains in the

home position. Observe the stuffer clutch after

making these adjustments and check if it is

possible to clear clutch dog arm (3) away from

roller (4) by hand.

Final adjustment:

After one hour working:

• the clutchmust not overheat. If it does, reducethe

spring setting by loosening adjusting nuts (2)

 half a turn.

• If the stuffer fork does not remain steady in the

home position, increase the spring setting by

tightening adjusting nuts (2)  half a turn.

5. Crop holding fingers

1. Pull crop holding fingers until rubber stops are touching charge chamber. At
    this point tips of crop holding fingers should be flush with front edge of slots in
    cross beam. If not adjust with shims at rubber stops.

2.Trip stuffer mechanism. The tips of the crop holding fingers should withdraw 0
    to MAX. 10 mm. If not adjust with rod.

3. Check if Y = =/- 10 mm. If not adjust by moving rubber stop.