الخميس، 1 أغسطس 2013

Adjustment of the knotter in big baler part4 5. Adjustments

Do not adjust the baler without having seen the performance in the field
Only adjust if really necessary or after maintenance/renewal
 
A.Twine quality

Take a half of meter twine and start untwisting the twine.
A good quality twine will have 15 to 30 windings, a bad quality twine 8 or less.
Q-twine is produced by Cotesi S.A., europe’s largest and most advanced twine producer
They are ISI 9000 accredited.
Ferric-oxide colour (rust colour) offers enhanced U.V. protection and is long lasting when exposed to sunlight.
Q-TWINE has ‘Easy-Feed’ spools to ensure trouble-free knotting from the start


B.Twine tension
Practical adjustment :
-Completely loosen the twine tensioners.
-Pull the twine (in the bale chamber or after the tucker arm) towards you.
-Increase twine tension until the slacker arm comes down and stays down without pulling twine from the twineboxes.
During the formation of a bale the slacker arm (and indicator flags) are in the completely down position. If it raises, increase twine tension

C.Knotter Bill hook
Practical adjustment :
-Untighten the billhook spring nut until the bill hook opens.
-Hold the billhook tongue open with your finger.
-Tighten the nut until the billhook tongue just closes. Do not overtighten.
D.Stripper arm
Practical adjustment :
-A force of 40 to 60 N should be necessary to move the stripper arm flange over the heel of the bill hook.
-When adjusted correctly, the notch of the stripper arm will travel beyond the end of the bill hook with a minimum distance X = 15 mm
-Adjusting : bending
small adjustments : on stack.

Larger adjustments : dismount
E.Twine disc
Engineering adjustment :
X = 2 – 3 mm

Practical adjustment :

Twine must be in the middle of the opened billhook.









F.Twine holder



Adjust until pigtail length is +/- 15 mm. Adjust ¼ of a turn each time.
Indication to start : empty twine disc, first tighten the springs by hand, then add 8 flats of a bolt 

(8 x 60 °) 


























الاثنين، 29 يوليو 2013

Adjustment of the knotter in big baler part2 Result of all modifications

A.Reduced driveline torque
Advantages :
Better overal performance
Less wear on components
Smooth driveline = less noise when knotting
Increased reliability
B.More consistent and longer pigtails
Double knotting results in twines around the bale with two knots
One to join top and bottom twine when tie-ing off a bale (knot I)
One to join top and bottom twine of the new bale (knot II)

Past weakness of NH knotter was knot II which tended to have short tails which could unroll. High density and silage baling (some grass in the knots) are conditions which worsen the problem.

NH knotters have changed (patent!) to overcome this weakness. Competitive knotters still have this weakness.
B.More consistent and longer pigtails – Summary of the test
NH knots do have tail lengths of around 20mm. There’s no difference between knot I & II anymore, all knots have good length knot tails.
Competitive double knotter clearly had problems with short tails  with knot II. Several borderline tails (5mm). All nr. I knots were OK: all longer than 10mm and of approximately the same length as NH knots.
Unfortunately one poor knot is enough to cause a bale to explode.
  NH BB9080 rotor cutter vs comparable competitive unit 
Oat straw. Spain 24/6/2008. 10.00-12.00

C.Improved serviceability

Easy and quick removing of the shielding to access the knotter.

This simplifies threading, adjusting and maintenance






السبت، 27 يوليو 2013

Adjustment of the knotter in big baler 1. Description of the parts

know the different components of the knotter,
explain what the changes for the new BB9000 series vs. the old BBA series,
be able to adjust the knotter
1. Description of the parts
The pinion gear (6) has been poured out of stronger material.

A.New design of knotter frame
B.Reduced twine tension
C.New twine finger
Prevents the twine from slipping during the ejection of the 2nd knot.
In this way, twine tension is locally build up, which eases the ejection of the 2nd Knot.
D.New twine finger spring




























E.New billhook






























New billhook lip :
-lip is longer + new formed tip
-opening of the billhook from 8 mm to 12 mm
-due to the increased billhook opening, better adjustment possible from the twinedisc in relation to the billhook.
-less knotter problems, because the twine can be grabbed more easily when the billhook is turning.
New formed tip :
-The corner at the end of the tip is sharper vs. The old tip
-This holds the cut twine endsin the billhook for making a strong knot : the twines hit a “wall” which freezes and tightens the knot already inside the billhook.
-With the old billhook, the knots (2nd knot) needed to be tightened more by the slacker arm springs
F.Twineholder with longer bridge
Remark : the old BBA series already had 2 springs, not 3 as shown on the picture. 

G.New billhook cam

G.Knife arm without tail
With a single knotter we need the knife arm to take off the knot and to prevent the twine comes behind the knife arm.  With a double knotter the knife arm is in another position and the twine can not get behind the twine arm
The "angle" was also the cause that the knife arm broke off => the knife arm passes the haydog (the haydog has a shape that makes sure the knife arm can pass).  If you have a thick flake (=> haydog in his upper position) and on that moment you have to start the knotting cycle the "angle" will hit the haydog and breaks of the knife arm. 

H.Changes to the knotter stack


Past :  washer - bushing - washer between 2 knotter bodies.
Today : The knotter bodies are shifted 2 mm to the right, to avoid interference of the needles with the billhook pinion gear. 
Also the shim under the pinion gear disappeared

I.New knotter disengage mechanism


الخميس، 25 يوليو 2013

Adjustments to the knives in big baler

-Know and explain the different knife drawer options
-
-Adjust the knife drawer to work in the field

-Change the knives in the knife drawer
1. Center the knives in the rotor
Loosen (2)             Adjust and center knifes 
  to rotor with (3)       tighten (2)
To centre the crop cutting knives, the locking plate of
the knife drawer can be adjusted.
2. Adjustment of knife frame latching hooks

retract cilinder                 loosen (4)
adjust X=1mm with (6)     tighten (4)
2.Adjustment of knife frame latching hooks.
Retract knife frame hydraulic cylinders completely. Adjust with eyebolt ref.6 a clearance   of X=1mm between latching hook ref.2 and latching plate ref.3. Adjustment to be made on both sides of the machine

3. Knife replacement
Lower the knife drawer hydraulically from  tractor
Slide open the knife drawer
Replace the knives – place false knives when knive is removed
Follow reverse way to close the drawer
remark : It is no longer necessary to unlock the knives.
 

4. Knive sharpening
Field test results indicate the knives can best be
resharpened after approximately 500 bales in clean
crop conditions. In contaminated crop conditions
resharpening may be necessary after 200 bales.
Grind on the smooth side of the knife only, never
on the notched side.
When reinstalling the knives, make sure they
regularly change position in the machine, i.e. middle
ones on the outside and vice versa, to equal out their
wear pattern

5. Knife drawers available
BB9050 & BB9060
Packer cutter : 6 knives (as BBA)
Rotor cutter : Standard - 11 knives
                      Short Cut option – 23 knives (as BBA)
BB9070 & BB9080
Rotor cutter : Standard Cut – 17 knives
           Short cut option – 33 knives (as BBA)